Maintenance FAQ

What is a balanced pool?

A pool that is "balanced" has proper pH levels, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, Salt, and Cyanuric Acid.   These are generally considered to be:

pH: 7.2-7.8

Total Alkalinity: 80-120 ppm

Calcium Hardness, 250-400 ppm

Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer): 20-40 ppm.

Salt: 2,700-3,300 ppm.

Chlorine levels should remain constant in the 1-3 ppm range.

Why is a balanced pool important?

A balanced pool is not only safe but the most comfortable water you can be in. Common pool problems including algae, cloudy water, plaster streaks/discoloration, equipment/material corrosion, and premature wear are all symptoms of unbalanced water.

Chemistry Levels: How do you determine if the water is out of balance?

Blue Fire Pools uses The Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) which is the cornerstone of the Orenda program. The LSI is the unbiased measurement of water balance, as defined by calcium carbonate saturation. LSI uses water temperature, pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness, cyanuric acid, and total dissolved solids to determine if the water is aggressive/corrosive (low LSI), balanced, or scale-forming (high LSI).  

What’s the easiest way to calculate the LSI value of my pool?

BFP recommends using the free Orenda app for water testing. The app calculates the LSI value and recommends how to modify your pool to achieve balance.

what should I expect from a basic pool chemical service?

A reputable pool maintenance company should use the LSI system to balance pools and provide a written/printable report indicating what level the pool was at upon arrival, what modifications were made to the pool, and what the pool levels were upon their departure. They should also include if any equipment modifications were made and if so, what changes were made.

My service company doesn’t provide a report. Why is that needed?

In the unlikely event the pebble plaster has an issue, the manufacturer and installer will want to see the pool chemistry reports to substantiate a claim as a material failure rather than the failure of the owner to properly maintain water balance. Not maintaining balanced water will void the warranty.

I test and maintain the water myself. How do I document my tests?

Screenshot the Orenda app and periodically take a set of water samples to Leslie’s for testing.

I’m taking a water sample for a 3rd party to test. What is the proper way to sample?

After running your pool for a least 30 minutes at medium-high speed (or greater), select a minimum of 2 locations for 2 tests. The locations should be in the normal flow area of the pool and not at a return jet or skimmer. Using a clean, empty, uncapped water bottle, invert the bottle and lower it into the water at least 1’ below the surface. Fill the bottle, remove it from the water, cap it, and deliver the bottle to the testing lab within 30 minutes. It’s recommended to average the results of the 2 samples.

What is the proper way to add chemicals to the pool?

It’s best to dissolve chemicals before adding them by filling a 5-gallon bucket with 4 gallons of water, adding the chemical to the water-filled bucket, stirring, and adding to the pool once dissolved. Do not let undissolved chemicals rest on the pool floor. (can cause discoloration)

Can Muriatic acid be added directly into the pool?

Muriatic acid is heavier than water, therefore, it will sink to the bottom. It could stain the pool if left for long enough periods at high concentrations. It’s recommended to dissolve muriatic acid in a bucket and then add it to the pool.

Are all pool chemicals the same quality?

No! Like most things you typically get what you pay for. Muriatic Acid, Chlorine, and Calcium all come in different concentrations. Know what you’re purchasing before you buy. Using lower-grade chemicals can require much more material to achieve the same result. In addition, low-grade chemicals like salt can take time to dissolve and take more effort to add. BFP recommends purchasing professional-grade chemicals for the best results. You can purchase professional-grade chemicals from BFP.  For clients who built with us, we offer discounted pricing for life.

Do I really have to brush so much after a new plaster/pebble install

Yes, brushing the pool twice daily for the first month is a very important step to ensuring your new plaster stays beautiful for years to come. The are several reasons for frequent brushing your new pool: 1)  The most important reason is that it ensures that the plaster cures correctly and smoothly without any pitting, scaling, spotting, or gray streaks on the surface of the plaster. Paster has many micropores within the surface that need to stay clean. Correctly cured plaster will last a long-time and maintain its durability. 2) New plaster is more susceptible to algae growth. The plaster used in the swimming pool has many micropores on the surface where harmful bacteria and algae like to breed. If you don’t brush your new pool plaster, the algae will continue to grow inside and out of the plaster. Algae growth is not only unsightly but can be dangerous as well. 3) Not brushing new pool plaster will result in scale build-up on the surface of your pool water. Scale build-up is typically made of different minerals, primarily calcium carbonate. This build-up can stick to walls and other pool surfaces, and left alone will harden and stain the pool. Scale build-up is difficult to remove and results from fluctuations in your pool chemistry, specifically, high pH and alkalinity. These fluctuations happen because the materials in the plaster typically have high levels of calcium carbonate that are released into the pool water. Regular brushing will remove any debris and keep the surface of the pool floor clear. New plaster usually has quite a bit of loose plaster dust left on the surface and within the micropores. This dust is a build-up of calcium carbonate, aka scale, that has yet to harden. Brushing out these pores will remove any excess dust, giving the plaster a chance to cure correctly, prevent scale stains, and prevent algae buildup.

Why isn’t brushing the plaster the pool builders responsibility?

Nearly all pool builders require the pool owners to brush their new plaster. For the most part, the reason is due to the time and associated cost of twice daily brushing for several weeks which would add up to well over $1,000. At BFP, our position is while we want to keep the costs as low as possible, it’s more important to monitor your brushing technique during the initial week while we are maintaining the chemicals. If we see scale starting to build, we can quickly address the issue with the owner before it becomes much harder and more expensive to remove.

My new plaster has steaks in it. Why is that and does it need to be redone?

Most of the time the answer is no.  Streaking, especially on new plaster jobs, is normal. The plastering process is a hand-applied process that involves a series of processes that naturally have inconsistencies within them. For example, a particular step could be curing in mostly sunny conditions while another step is curing in mostly shady conditions. Another example is a tanning deck that is exposed to the air for longer than the pool bottom while the pool is being filled – thereby curing in different conditions. Streaking can and will occur even when plaster is applied by the most experienced crews in the industry. The good news is that most of the time, steaks are naturally worked out with proper brushing and pool chemistry. In the event streaks (not scale) remain after the initial 30 days, there are additional measures that can be taken to even the surface color. The majority of the time, proper brushing and pool chemistry is the best procedure for achieving the most consistent plaster appearance.

I have algae in my pool. What do I do?

The best way to prevent algae is proper pool maintenance. Brushing, keeping the pool and filter clean, and adequate chlorine levels are the best ways to keep algae at bay. When algae forms, the first step is a thorough brushing with a heavy focus on the steps and corners of the pool. Shocking the pool will kill most algae but it still needs to be brushed off surfaces and removed via vacuum or the filtration system to sanitize the water. Be aware that different types of algae have different resistances to chlorine. Bright green algae are the easiest to remove. Yellow and dark green are more difficult, typically more slippery, and require higher shock levels to remove.  Black algae are the most difficult and will require up to a 4x shock treatment to kill and usually a wire brush to remove once killed. It’s best to shock the pool at night as the sun can reduce the effectiveness of chlorine. The pool equipment should be kept running at a medium-high to high speed during any shock or super chlorination treatment. After filtering out all the dead algae (cloudy particles) wash the filter, brush, vacuum well and rebalance the pool. If algae is a common problem, consider adding an AOP sanitation-boosting system. An AOP system uses ozone and UV to destroy algae.